Friday, October 28, 2011

How to Start Your Own Allotment Or Vegetable Garden

!±8± How to Start Your Own Allotment Or Vegetable Garden

Perhaps surprisingly, the global economic climate is not the only reason for the recent increase in our collective desire to start growing our own fruit or vegetables. Allotments are also seen as great ways to escape and increasingly digital world, and an excellent to regain a connection with the natural order of the earth. Consequently, they are often cited to have a very positive impact on an individual's well-being, and an excellent means to a healthier lifestyle. What follow are some key points to help you start an allotment?

Plot
The first thing to consider when starting an allotment is plot, i.e. where it is, and how big it is. For those of us who live in towns there will often be land owned by the council or private owners that will be separated into allotment plots. Think about how close you want to be to your home and how accessible each option is, as well as security water sources. But more importantly, ask yourself what exactly you want to grow and ensure that there is enough space for your needs, i.e. root veg such as potatoes will need more room than climbers such as tomatoes and beans.

Weeds
If you are lucky then your plot may not have any weeds. However, if it is a plot that has not been cared for recently, then it is likely you will have to deal with some of the usual suspects such as grasses, nettles, brambles, and some other of the nastier culprits as bindweed, ground elder and thistles. Subsequently, how you deal with your weeds will depend on what you have. If you decide to dig over you plot, do so in sections and cover what you have dug until you are ready to plant there. If there are relatively few visible weeds, hand-weed over the plot before digging.

Garden Tools
It shouldn't take long after you start before you ask yourself what garden tools you need. If you have a particular bad soil or weed situation you may need the aid of a Rotavator (a motorized push-along tiller) or a Strimmer. If you are lucky you may be able to borrow garden tools from neighbouring gardeners, or there might even be a communal shed/store. If not you will no doubt be able to rent what you need from somewhere in the area, but if you are planning on continuing over a big plot or a long period of time it might be necessary to invest in tools of your own.

Planning
The last thing you need to consider before planting is how you will use your plot space. Traditionally allotments are simply organised into beds which are four or five feet wide with paths on either side to allow access. Of course this will depend on what you want to grow, but to make better use of space, some gardeners like to edge narrower beds with wood, leaving enough path space to kneel and typically a well-defined two row bed that can be easy to tend to from either side. After it has been used, cover over the winter and use again the following year if you wish - but always consider rotating crops to keep the soil in the best shape in the long term.


How to Start Your Own Allotment Or Vegetable Garden

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Wednesday, October 19, 2011

How to Seed a Lawn

!±8± How to Seed a Lawn

Seeding a lawn is without doubt one of the best money saving to do their homework a home owner or property, may require only minimal experience or knowledge, and the results can be phenomenal. If you are looking for dry, brown grass complain, how expensive or time will be corrected, do not worry anymore. Note that this may take time and invest many hours in the sun, but it's something that once in order to place without breaking the bank. Although probablywon't see the results of your efforts for a short while, before long your lawn will be transformed into the lush green landscape you imagine - it just takes a little time, care, and routine maintenance.

The preparation phase of this procedure is by far the most important aspect. Without properly prepared soil, your new grass seeds will have a very difficult time germinating. Well-tilled earth, proper irrigation and just a little bit of science (not enough to hurt your brain I promise) are the keys to getting your new lawn off to a good start. To begin with, the old grass needs to be completely removed at the roots. A sod cutter can do the trick, which you can normally rent for under 0 a day, and will remove the grass and weeds at the roots. Once this is completed, its time to add your soil and compost mix. You'll have to turn the soil with a rotary tiller, and add successive layers of sand and compost. Also be sure to rake away or manually remove medium and large rocks if any are present.

However, even with a good soil and fertilizer mixture, your new grass seed will have a hard time growing if the pH of the soil is too acidic or too alkaline. the pH scale is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a substance - once your lawn is cleared you should test it to determine what the pH level of your soil is. The ideal soil pH for grass to thrive is somewhere between 6 and 7.5, anything lower or higher than that will give your grass seed a hard time, and the end result will not be ideal. If your soil pH is too low, you may have to add a very shallow layer of Lime to bring it up (one inch or so deep should be sufficient. If your soil pH is too high, you'll have to add a bit of sulfur.

So, to recap, your soil should be your base. Get rid of the existing grass and weeds, and till. Add 1/2 to 1 inch of sand and till. Add 1/2 inch or so of Lime or Sulfur (if needed, depending on your soil's pH). Add some starter fertilizer/compost, and gently rake it into the underlying soil throughout. Once this is completed, you are ready to start getting your seeds down. Once your soil is prepared, the actual seeding process is a breeze. Simply spread out the right amount of grass seed, and make sure it gets enough water.

For larger lawns, you might need to use a walk-behind seed spread to make the job a bit easier. For smaller areas, a simple hand held spreader should do the trick. Make sure to spread your seed evenly throughout, and don't over do it. A moderate peppering is all that's required. Once you have your seed laid down, grab a plastic rake, turn it upside down, and gently use the back of the tines to massage the seeds into the soil. Not much force is needed in this step, make sure to use short and very light strokes, long heavy strokes can bunch up your seed and cause uneven growth in some areas.

Watering needs to become a part of your routine from now on. Make sure to water your newly seeded soil regularly, you can use either an oscillating sprinkler or a fan sprinkler, as long as the water is evenly distributed and you get complete coverage. If you don't have a sprinkler, a simple hose sprayer attachment on the mist setting will also do the trick. Be sure to move the sprinkler on to a new, unwatered area after approximately 10 minutes. Around 10 minutes of watering, two or three times a day, should be plenty for the first couple of weeks. Once the seeds begin to sprout, cut it back to one watering per day for around 15 to 20 minutes. It's best to schedule your watering more toward the early morning and noon time, that way the soil has more time to absorb and less evaporation takes place. If you receive a fair amount of rain during the day, you will not need to set your sprinklers out until the following day - don't drown your seed. Also, avoid watering late in the evening or at night, this can result in fungal diseases.

If you have any large trees near the area you are seeding, be sure to thin the branches to allow more sunlight to pass through to the soil. Once your grass has begun to grow, be sure to water the soil under your large trees once or twice a week during periods without rainfall, to make sure the grass doesn't get starved by the tree roots absorbing all the moisture in the soil.

And that's it! Before you know it, your lawn will be green and healthy once more. Now take care of it!


How to Seed a Lawn

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Monday, October 17, 2011

3 Tips on Picking the Perfect Front-Tine Garden Tiller

!±8± 3 Tips on Picking the Perfect Front-Tine Garden Tiller

As gardeners we all want beautiful gardens, and the way to achieve a beautiful garden is with the right tools. front-tine garden tillers come in many different brands with multi-functions. They are perfect for small to medium size gardens and soft soil and are normally used for weeding and light garden maintenance. If you are looking to till hard or tough soil then a front-tine garden tiller is not the right tool. A garden cultivator would be better for hard soil tilling.
Tip #1 - Choosing the right front-tine garden tiller requires research, which engine speed is needed for your size garden. All of them use 4 cycle engines, and the user does not have to mix gas and cycling oil together. With the 4 cycle engines gardeners get more power than cultivators 160-205 cc of engine power.
Tip #2 -Tine rotation adjusting blades are an important part of any tillers. All front-tine tillers come with forward rotating tines and is consider the standard feature. Most of them have width adjusting blades, making it ideal for weeding and minor maintenance.
Tip #3 - Maneuverability is another important factor when choosing the right front-tine garden tillers. The typical tiller weighs about 100-130 lbs, having wheels in the front of the tiller really helps when pushing the tiller over walkways and driveways. Front-tine Garden Tillers have a big wheel in the front because the tiller is propelled by the front rotating tine blade. Without the big wheel on the front this machine would be a lot harder to push through loose soil. The front blade makes the tiller more difficult to maneuver than an everyday garden cultivator.

After you have gone through all the above factors, the next thing you should consider is whether you need a till for long-term or short-term. Depending on that, you can determine whether you want to buy a front-tine tiller or eventually rent one. Gas-powered front-tine tillers range from 0 to 00+ depending on size, manufacturer and features. Electric ones may cost less but there is the limited ability of maneuvering due to the attached power-cord. On the other hand their advantage is the lower noise than the gas-powered one and the smoke and smell of gasoline. Renting on the other hand could save you a handful of money if you don't intend to have a big garden and plan to till only from time to time. So, what are you waiting for? Time to garden!


3 Tips on Picking the Perfect Front-Tine Garden Tiller

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